The Cycle to work Scheme window is ending shortly!
K&S committed to doing we can to encourage cycling, particularly for those who would previously have used the tube or buses to get to the office in the past. Below we’ve pulled together (hopefully) everything you need, and possibly more, to get you in the saddle. Some of the sections warrant articles in themselves, so separate links have been provided.
Click the headers below to take you to the section or read it all!
Avoiding public transport
The COVID outbreak has massively changed how we live in the short term. Now that the lockdown is lifted (for now at least), the government, TfL and local councils have seized the opportunity to change how the city works. The Government recently announced a £2 Billion package “to create a new era for walking and cycling”. The city of London is set to ban cars on many of its busiest roads, and pavement widening has been implemented to allow people to maintain social distancing, and pop up bike lanes have been appearing everywhere. Many towns and cities in the UK have a big air pollution problem, and beyond that it’s simply not practical in a city like London for people to drive in any significant number – the roads would instantly be clogged – so if you do come to town, you’re encouraged to walk or cycle!
Cycling is for Everybody - “Cyclists” is a term already loaded with meaning. I imagine that when you hear that word, as a normal British person fed the standard media output, you imagine Bradley Wiggins, Victoria Pendleton, or, less charitably, an overweight middle-aged man wearing (/squeezed into) Lycra - known as a MAMIL – probably with a bad attitude. But the truth is that cycling is not just for sporty types and the “lycra brigade”. A cyclist is just a person on a bike, trying to get somewhere.
A person on a bike is the most efficient form of transport that has existed on Earth, and this efficiency has been estimated to be the equivalent of an average car being able to drive 1600 on one gallon of petrol. This means that cycling uses far less energy than walking. There’s no need to worry about needing all of the special gear or getting hot and bothered, if you take it easy and enjoy the ride! No one is too old, too young, or too out of shape to cycle. Bikes are relatively cheap to buy (see the Bike to Work Scheme!), and very cheap to run, if you get the right one and treat it well.
Freeing up space for those who need it – every bike on the road is a free seat on a bus or a train, and one less polluting car on the road. By walking or cycling, you’re doing your bit to keep the city moving and help those who have to use the public transport network because for them active travel isn’t an option. Cycling England estimates that every new cyclist saves the nation £382 a year in costs related to health, pollution and congestion. It says a 20 per cent increase in biking in the next two years would save £107m in premature deaths, £52m for the National Health Service and £87m in costs to employers through reduced sickness. A cut in pollution would save £71m a year, while reducing congestion would save £207m.
HEALTH – I won’t bore you with how exercise is good for your physical health - it just is, OK? – a 15 -30 minute cycle ride in the morning really gets you ready for a day’s work, and is a way better and more refreshing wake up than having to mainline triple strength caffeine hits (I just have a normal strength coffee when I get to work)
It’s FUN!
WHICH BIKE SHOULD I BUY?!
(tl;dr – spend between £500-£1000 on something you like the look of and have test-ridden, and you’ll be fairly happy, and you’ll have a decent bike made of quality stuff which will last you years)
Check out the K&S bike to work scheme! it’s amazing!For less than £50 per month you can get your hands on a sweet ~£1000 bike! Amazing!
Right, this is an impossible question to answer, and to even attempt to answer will require a lot of personal opinion from the person trying. (Imagine the difference between an Apple zealout vs Google phone user - I’m sure they’ll have plenty to say about each other’s tastes…)BUT – I have ridden many, many bikes, I currently own 3 (4 if you include “my” mountain bike which lives in my parents’ garage 200 miles away), so hopefully some of what I’m about to say is backed up by experience…
The main factors in choosing a bike are: comfort/quality/cost/weight/style, and the questions you need to be asking yourself, before we get into the nitty gritty, are:
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What do I want this bike for?
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What kind of bike rider will I be?
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Where will I keep the bike?
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How much should I spend?
Here’s a couple of links to get you started, if you want a potentially less subjective opinion:
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/whats-the-best-bike-for-commuting/
https://www.cyclist.co.uk/buying-guides/4416/best-commuter-bikes
First – a very brief review of “types of bike”, current bikes on sale in the UK broadly fit in to the categories of “Road”, “Hybrid/Commuter”, “town bike”, “e-bike”, “single speed”, “mountain bike”, and “gravel bike”. It’s all very confusing.
Let’s discount “mountain” and “gravel” for now, as it’s hard to see how a cycle-to-work bike in London is going to involve either much “gravel” or any mountains or off-road conditions, unless you’re incredibly keen.
So we’re left with “Road”, “Hybrid/Commuter”, “e-bike”, “town bike” and “single-speed”.
Road bikes
(Here comes the first big slice of personal opinion…)
In the same way that you might puzzle at why someone who never leaves Chelsea needs the top of the range Range Rover, a 2-ton beast able to be taken on rugged off-road adventures, I tend to puzzle at why so many people in London seem to want to commute on bikes that are effectively designed for riding long distances, fast.Road bikes are the norm in London, and as such, people think that that’s what they need.I’m here to tell you that all those people are doing it wrong (- and a quick hello to everyone who cycle in on a road bike!).Sure, some of those people on their carbon framed racers might also be using their bikes at the weekends to do their triathlon training, but trust me, most won’t.
If the answer to the first question above, “What is this bike for?” is “99% riding around town at steady speeds, wanting to be safe and comfortable”, I would say a speedy looking road bike is the wrong choice, and you want to consider a “hybrid” or “town bike”. Skip on for the section on hybrids, unless you fancy hearing my few reasons why road bikes are best used for long distance and fitness rides…
Road bikes have narrow tyres, to reduce friction, and go faster. This means less air under your saddle than on other types of bike, soaking up the bumps on your ride.Thinner tyres =less air =less cushioning = bumpier (but faster) ride.
Road bikes have frames that (generally) force you to lean forward a lot, into an aerodynamic position – again, good if you’re pedalling for 5 hours in a road race, not so good if you want to not get sore back/shoulders/wrists when you start cycling.
Road bikes have “dropped” handlebars (the curvy-downy ones), which to my mind have brakes that are less efficient that “flat” handlebars.If you want to use the brakes most efficiently on a road bike, you have to lean right down to grip the bars in the “drop” position – this position is not ideal when commuting.
The road bike riding position I’ve been going on about is also, in my opinion less safe on many road bikes than other types of bike, since your head is down lower, looking at the road, which limits your ability to see around you to spot potential hazards and/or coffee and donut shops, or Greggs.
If you do think you’ll use the bike for going cycling at for day rides at weekends etc, or maybe one day trying a triathlon, then by all means treat yourself to a road bike – though I would look for something designed for “touring”, which generally means it’ll be more geared towards a comfortable riding position.
One advantage of road bikes is that they’re very light, which means they go fast, and it also means they are quite portable – good if you’re going to have to carry it up or down stairs.
What about a hybrid/commuter bike?
If your new bike is going to be your first bike, or only bike, or you just want “a bike” I’d suggest trying to get something of an “all-rounder” – which is where “hybrid” or “commuter” bikes come in. In general, hybrid bikes are a mixture of mountain bike and road bike design.So sort of like a mountain bike without the chunky tyres, or sort of like a road bike, but more designed for comfort. (spoiler – I own a Hybrid bike, and use it for commuting). In general the handlebars will be around the same level as the saddle, or higher, which is a much more comfortable riding position.
These bikes are generally not the most fashionable (the fixie riders and the racer riders will look down on you), but what they have going for them is that they’re
Don’t get me wrong, eventually, you should own a road bike and a mountain bike and a commuter bike, but for now, one that does all three seems a good idea if you think you’ll be mostly cycling around town but might want to go for a leisure ride.
Town bikes
These are for the urban riders, and are sometimes called “Dutch-style” or “roadster” bikes. The handle bars will be quite high compared to the saddle, for maximum comfort. They’re basically designed for comfort and utility, not speed, and are not designed for riding long distances, or riding at speed.As such, they can be quite heavy – so lifting them up and down stairs is problematic.Town bikes also easy to hop on and off, as they’re often “step-through” designed, meaning you don’t have to swing your legs about to get on.
So, if storage isn’t a problem, and you want to ride steadily, there are some really great town bikes out there.
(aside: step through or not step through?)
If you see yourself trundling along at a steady pace, minding your own business, not trying to beat anyone away from the lights in your own personal race to a finish line that you have in your head, then you might consider a step-through frame, or indeed a “roadster” bike.These are easier to hop on and off, and are for the cyclist who really isn’t interested in the “sport” aspect that is so often tied to cycling in this country. They generally have a comfier riding position which is more upright.If you want a bike that will get you somewhere unruffled and ready to go, then a step through frame could be for you. Bikes like this often come with handy features like chain guards, which keep you from getting oil and muck on your clothes, and hub gears, which require less maintenance than “normal” gears.
If on the other hand, you are going to be thinking of fitness, or want to keep up with the big boys and girls, consider the non-step through bikes, they’re usually slightly lighter, and more suited to building up a bit of speed.
Folding Bikes
These can be an excellent choice if you are commuting by train as well as bike.The stand-out folding bike is by Brompton (check out this for the electric Brompton, and how it’ll allow you leave full-kit lycra twerps (00:35s) to eat your dust…).There are much cheaper folding bikes available, but given the extra design required to make them work well, it’s best to avoid the cheapest models out there.
E-Bikes
The recent improvements in battery technology mean that e-bikes are very much in the ascendency. I love that these bikes are getting more people riding. They allow for quick acceleration, which in London is useful when leaving the lights, to get you up to speed. They come in all shapes and sizes now, so you can find road bikes and town bikes that are e-equipped.
Considerations: - cost – e-bikes are about £500-1000 more expensive than a “normal” bike – so if you see one for well-under £1000, it’s probably going to have relatively cheap components. I’d say you want to be looking at over £1000 (new) to get something decent. Also, consider whether you’ll be able to store them indoors, and if so, whether that involves climbing any stairs, because e-bikes are generally much heavier than regular bikes.
How much to spend??
Well, in general, if you spend £500 or more, you’re very likely getting a decent bike, which has good components, that shouldn’t need a lot of attention for the first few years of riding. I would recommend buying the most expensive bike you can afford, since if you spend under that limit, in 6-12 months’ time you’ll just be thinking about upgrading.I followed this advice in 2013 and bought myself an £800 bike on my previous firm’s cycle to work scheme, and my bike is still going strong today.Nonetheless, I’m considering upgrading to a snazzy e-bike, now that the cycle to work scheme has been announced.
If you are looking for excellent value, then both Halfords (in particular with the Boardman range) and Decathlon use their significant buying power to sell excellent quality bikes at good value.
A plea – if you are considering getting a second hand bike – please don’t buy any bike you think may have been stolen! There are plenty of bikes on eBay and Gumtree that have been pinched, and if you buy one you are effectively paying a thief to go and steal bikes for you… which is, basically, awful. One way to spot a dodgy ad is to see if the seller has other bikes for sale, or if the ad text looks copy-pasted, like they don’t know much about the bike. If you unsure, or the deal looks too good to be true, leave it!
What other gear do I need?
Things you need:
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A decent lock – get the most expensive one you can afford, there’s nothing worse than coming back to an empty bike stand. A D-lock to attach the frame to something sturdy is the standard advice, with another light lock to keep the front wheels. A really good lock will cost £60-£100.
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Lights – you may end up cycling after dark, and these are legally required at night. Turning your lights on in the day can also be helpful to let people know you’re there. Consider getting USB chargeable lights that are easily take-on-and-offable, as you’ll not want to leave them on the bike unattended.
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You should get a helmet, though it’s worth noting that it’s not compulsory to wear one in England. (if you really want, give me a call and we’ll have a debate on helmets – an apology to those of you who have already heard my ranting).
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Consider a pannier rack – attaching your luggage to the bike in a “pannier”, rather than keeping it on your back in a rucksack, means you will not have a sweaty shirt to change out of when you arrive.
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“Hi-Viz” – you can also invest in all manner of high visibility clothing, if it makes you feel safer. However, the evidence as to its effectiveness is not proven. One thing that certainly is effective is anything reflective – in particular ankle, pedal and wheel reflectors help you be seen. Note that in countries where cycling is the most popular, you almost never see cyclists in helmets and high-viz (because cycling isn’t dangerous, bad driving is).
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Mud-guards – if your bike doesn’t come with mud-guards, you should get some! it’ll save you from a wet bum, and also anyone behind you from getting a wet face!
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Consider a mirror – a mirror can be very useful if you aren’t super confident about looking over your right shoulder, both to see what’s behind you in general, and also to prepare for turning right. They are relatively cheap, and attach to your handlebars.
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Waterproofs – Autumn is just around the corner, and so it’s definitely worth investing in a decent waterproof jacket to keep you dry. That said, the weather in London is such that even if you were to cycle every single day, you’d only get properly wet a handful of times every year…
Don’t fancy buying? Hire a Bike!
If you don’t want to buy a bike right now, check out the various Hire Schemes – there’s plenty of options
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Santander Cycles – these are the original London Hire Bikes, which have to be taken from and returned to “docking” stations, which are spread throughout London – there are at least three within a 5-minute walk of the office. To ride costs £2 for 24h, with the caveat that you have to return your bike to a docking station within 30min. You can then take further 30 min rides that day for “free”. If you go over 30min you pay £2 per additional 30 minutes.
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LIME – is the “dockless” e-bike service which has recently swallowed up the Uber JUMP bikes. They also do e-scooters. Basically you use the app, to locate a bike, cycle it to where you want to go, and leave it somewhere where it isn’t blocking the pavement, et voila! The pricing is overall similar to the Santander scheme
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Buzzbike is a new subscription service – for £30 a month, you get a premium bike, along with protection against theft, on-demand maintenance and a fun app which encourages you to get riding.
Cycle tips – here’s a few things to think about:
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Plan your route – (see below)
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Junctions are the main danger points – so be aware not to be on the left hand side of a large vehicle that may be turning left;
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Never ride in the “door zone” – unfortunately, since the number of cars in the UK has doubled in the last 25 years (from 20 million to 40 million), there are parked cars everywhere. Don’t risk having someone in a parked car open their door on you – make sure you ride at least 50cm away from them, unless you’re going extremely slowly!
Central London has a fair amount of dedicated cycle infrastructure, and more is being put in all the time right now – good news!
Google maps doesn’t always give you the best route – you can try the TfL cycle website which will give you three route options for any journey, with one being as quiet and safe as possible. Another great option is CycleStreets
The team have also put together a set of routes to get you from your station to the office (and back again). For the most part these aim to get you to the best cycle lanes and keep you on them until you are as close to the office as possible, as such, they’re not the most direct routes, but they’re certainly the most pleasant, and also safest.
Most pleasant routes to the Office:
Waterloo Station – VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS
Charing Cross - VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS
Fenchurch Street - VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS
Marylebone - VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS
Liverpool Street - VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS (this one has a couple of tricky junctions)
Many K&S staff currently cycle, and can help out with route choice if you’re unsure – just ask!